Madeira History - Porto Moniz

Port Moniz is situated in the far north west tip of Madeira island. Ever popular with tourists, it is a regular lunch time stop for the many west of the island coach tours.

Originally it was founded sometime in the late 15th century. Historical records dating back to 1533 mention it, although by its original name of Ponta do Tristão or, in English, Point of Tristan. It is thought that the name of Porto Moniz was adopted by the village because Francisco Moniz assumed ownership of much of the land upon marriage to Filipa da Câmara, a great grand-daughter of João Gonçalves Zarco* the discoverer of Madeira.

It is also believed that Francisco Moniz, originating from Algarve nobility, funded the Nossa Senhora da Conceição chapel which served the first fishing and farming inhabitants. Some time after his death, the settlement is referred to as Porto do Moniz, or Port of Moniz in 1574.

Footnote: João Gonçalves Zarco married twice. Filipa da Câmara was a descendant of Zarco's second wife, Isabella Moniz.

Pirate Attacks on Porto Moniz

From the onset, like any other coastal village in Madeira, the principal methos of communication with the remainder of the island was by means of the sea. Produce was taken by port hopping ships and sold on in return for provisions that could not be sourced locally.

Unfortunately, the sea also brought its own tribulations to the population of Porto Moniz, as it later became known - the "do" being dropped. Not only did the swell of the winter tides make sea journeys hazardous, but proximity to the Atlantic Ocean meant that Porto Moniz was always in fear of attack by pirates.

The main form of defence from the pirate attacks was to flee and hide inland or in the immediate hillside that rises dramatically from the seafront. Items of worth or provisions were regularly hidden in holes excavated in the ground when attack was thought imminent.

Nevertheless, the toll of frequent and on-going raids caused hardship.

Accordingly, the São João Baptista Fort was built in 1730's. This impressive building faces out to sea and has a sweep of vision that makes surprise seaborne attack impossible.

Historical Aspects Of Porto Moniz

The census of 1836 designates that 1,559 families were living in the Parish of Porto Moniz. These comprised of 7,333 persons, 3,606 being male and 3,727 being female.

There is an account that survives from 1854 that gives an insight to the contemporary living conditions:

Ponta Moniz is formed by a mass of lava running out north-east about 470 yards from the general line of the coast, and looks as if it had flowed over the cliffs into the sea from the heights above them. The base of the point, which is its most elevated part, is about 420 yards broad: from thence it slopes to the outer extreme, and becomes low and narrow.

The little bay, locally designated Porto Moniz, has much foul ground in it from Moniz Islet along its shore to the eastward, for the distance of half a mile, or half its extent, and to about a quarter of a mile off the beach.

It is in fact a rocky bank, varying in depth from 2 fathoms near the shore to 10 on its margin; and outside 10 fathoms; the quality of the bottom generally is fine dark speckled sand.

The town of Moniz is situated on the higher part of the point, the chapel being about one-third of a mile from the landing-place; but there are several small detached dwellings on other parts of it, and nearly the whole point is covered with stone enclosures, and devoted to the cultivation of the vine.

A tedious zigzag road leads from the town to the height above it, where there is a village and some good farms.

J. Imray and son, 1854

Farming in Porto Moniz

As the village developed, narrow terraces were cut into the volcanic hills that rise steeply above the port to form a patchwork of small holdings. The main crops grown were potatoes, cabbages and grapes for wine.

The difficult terrain meant that most of the agricultural tasks had to be undertaken by hand as it was impossible to use oxen drawn machinery in such surrounds.

In 1858 it was noted by the Royal Geographical Society of London that Porto Moniz, along with Porto do Pargo, where the only two regions on the north west coast of Madeira where vine growing was practiced:

The vine succeeds perfectly on the southern coast in positions open to south and east winds, even at an elevation of nearly 1500 feet. On the northern side of the island it thrives in the valleys, and especially in places sheltered from the west wind, interlacing its branches with those of the chesnut-trees. In the eastern part of the island the vine is cultivated to a considerable extent, but on the western side vineyards are exceptionally met with only in two localities, near Porto do Pargo and Porto Moniz. It must be remarked that these two places have suffered least from the grape-disease, which for four years has caused much calamity to all the inhabitants of Madeira.

Reference to the vine disease, Oidium, was again mentioned in 1866. The publication Insecta Maderensia commented that the vine growing region of Porto Moniz was recovering quicker from the blight than the areas devoted to the crop in the south of the island.

Another interesting fact indicating the uniqueness of the crops grown in the Porto Moniz area is brought to us by botanist RT Lowe who, in August 1850, wrote:

... by far the most remarkable and interesting plant is the Porto Moniz "Yam". The cultivation and use of this plant - another edible species in a poisonous genus, generally allied to, and closely resembling the common Black Bryony of our English hedges - is entirely confined in Madeira to a single Parish, Porto Moniz, in the north west corner of the island. In this remote spot, in which it has established itself in some way very difficult to trace, it forms an appreciable item in the vegetable nourishment of the people. The plant is not at the present day, so far as I have been able to ascertain or discover, found wild in Madeira...

Today, nothing much has changed, the patchwork of fields still exist for their owners to eek out a living. The traditional low fences of dried bracken and tree heather that protect the crops against the salt spray winds coming in from the Atlantic are still built and installed manually.

Transport Links With The Rest Of Madeira

It was not until after the Second World War that Porto Moniz was brought into closer contact with the remainder of Madeira island. A precarious road, literally hacked out of the coastal cliff by hand, was constructed by workers dangling in wicker baskets.

When finished, the road linked Porto Moniz with São Vicente that stands at the head of the central Madeiran valley that joins the north and south coasts.

Today, widening of the north coast road and upgrading it with tunnels means that Porto Moniz is a just an 80 minute drive from the centre of Funchal, the island's capital. The improved transport routes has resulted in Porto Moniz village undergoing a major transformation in the last 20 years. Suddenly, tourism has become an important income generator and the village is witnessing continual structural changes to encourage both short and long stay visitors.

Like most of the rest of Madeira, Porto Moniz seems to have pulled off that difficult trick of embracing the 21st century whilst still maintaining its traditional heritage.