The Palheiros of Santana, Madeira

Palheiros - Background of their home, Santana

Palheiros houses belong to Santana which, at first glance, is nothing more than a typical agricultural parish nestling on the slopes of north east of Madeira.

Those who have visited Madeira before will certainly have already sampled, or at least know of, the peculiarly unique attraction that Santana offers to those wanting a pleasant half day diversion.

That Santana holds a fascination for tourists is a fact well known to the various excursion companies that include in their itinerary east of island tours. On these tours Santana is almost, without exception, the most lauded scheduled stop.

In Santana Parish, as with almost everywhere else on the island, farming is undertaken on countless terraced, small plots.

The hilly topography makes it impossible to deploy tractors or other large mechanical aids so the only practical means of cultivation is with the aid of hand-sized tools. In tandem with this forced hands-on approach goes the Madeiran philosophy of shunning artificial pesticides and fertilizers.

Despite the limitations, a wide variety of crops are grown locally. Apples, cabbages, carrots, cherries, maize, mangoes, papayas, passion fruit, potatoes, sugar cane, and yam are all basic crops farmed in this region.

What Are These A-Framed Structures?

As you drive across the rural landscape, making your way into the heart of Santana, you will start to notice an increasing number of peculiar, A-shaped shed-like buildings.

Small, triangular and often appearing unmaintained, or even derelict, these small constructions give you a taste of the delight that awaits you in the town centre.

These structures carry the local name of Palheiros, which in English translates as haystacks.

This descriptive name will possibly bewilder you as, today, many Palheiros are topped with corrugated iron that is angled sharply down either side to the ground from the center apex. Not a single stem of straw is to be seen.

In fact, the wooden framed, A-shaped Palheiros were primary sheds for cows that, in the past had a bundled straw roof - thus the name.

Palheiros Homes

It is not until you broach the centre of Santana that you will recognise the important roll of the Palheiros.

Here, you will discover essentially the same structures serving not as cowsheds but as peoples' houses.

Of course, when used for this purpose, the Palheiros have been finished to a much more homely design. But, as you inspect the brightly painted red doors and the green window frames in the the white-washed walls remember that, essentially, these houses are nothing more than glorified cow sheds.

Perhaps even more surprising is the fact that, largely due to a government subsidy, local families still live in a few of these Palheiros as their only place of abode.

It says a lot for the Madeiran pride that some Palheiros houses are freely open to the public.

If you take the opportunity to enter one of these tiny Palheiros homes you are likely to behold a pristine wooden plank floor.

Also inside the Palheiros you will find a few items of wooden furniture and some simple decorative items.

Toward the rear will be a short ladder, with just a few rungs, taking you up to a box-sized bedroom.

White lace and the complete lack of electronic conveniences and gadgets completes the illusion that you have been taken back in time.

Santana is without doubt a tourist centre where history, in the form of the Palheiros, comes alive in modern Madeira.

Madeira Features

Funil Restaurant, Funchal

The Funil Restaurant in Funchal offers a friendly and fast service, providing an excellent option if you want to eat out in Funchal.

We have been going to the Funil now for seven years and the fact that we keep on going back must say something about the quality of their meals. Another good sign is that the restaurant is patronised by many locals as well - and if they can't identify good traditional Madeiran cooking, then nobody can.

There are plenty of regional speciality dishes on the menu. Our particular favourite is the Espada fish with fried banana.

In Madeira, the local fruit and vegetables are grown without the aid of chemicals and the fish are caught daily. So, you can be assured of a meal comprising of fresh, tasty and healthy ingredients from almost any local restaurant.

What makes the Funil Restaurant stand out for us is it's value-for-money menu.

The British Cemetery, Funchal

The British Cemetery can date its origin from 1770. Prior to that date, the laws of Madeira dictated that those deceased who were not Roman Catholic by faith were not to be buried on the island. Usually the corpses were consigned to the sea off the Garajau headland.

However, from 1772 onward, British interests secured a burial ground for those of the Protestant faith on the outskirts of Funchal.

The British Cemetery in Funchal still exists today, although its outer extent has shifted and supplemented over the years.

Many graves are crowded into the grounds. But, the headstones and memorial plaques do not reflect just those of British nationality. It has long been the custom to welcome the deceased of other national communities residing in Madeira.

The tranquillity and beauty of the grounds are a gentle reflection of Madeira's history.