Ponta de São Lourenço Hike in Eastern Madeira

This is not a Levada walk. However, if you enjoy hiking and want to sample a unique and unspoilt part of Madeira island, then the Ponta de São Lourenço hike is one for you.

Ponta de São Lourenço is the peninsula at the extreme edge of Madeira. As you make your way over the barren terrain, dramatic panoramic views stretch out in every direction. You will enjoy unrivalled views of both the north and south of the island.

Beyond the tip of the mainland are two, rocky, narrow islands. Ilhéu da Cevada and the smaller, furthest island, Ilhéu do Farol.

The terrain

The entire walk is about 8 kilometres in length and will take you between 3 and 4 hours to complete. There are some steep climbs and descents over bare, loose rock, so you should be sure footed.

The route of the hike is exposed and without shelter. You will be subject to the full force of the elements and you should go prepared for anything the weather could inflict upon you.

Although in recent years the more challenging stretches of the walk have had safety wires installed, there is still some possibility of vertigo. So, if you have a fear of heights, you should be ready to turn back if any section looks too intimidating for you.

As with all walks in Madeira, sensible precautions should be taken to aid your safety and enjoyment. The Ponta de São Lourenço hike in particular raises some unique challenges.

Prepare and be safe on your walk

Before you start out you should ensure:

• That someone responsible knows where you are going and your expected time of return
• Your footwear is appropriate for walking on uneven, possibly loose, rock
• That you have a supply of drinking water
• You are carrying a mobile phone for emergencies
• That you have enough time to complete the walk before twilight
• That you are wearing a high protection factor sunscreen lotion
• A sun hat is advisable
• You have additional clothing in the event of rain or a weather change

Start of the Walk

You start the hike from the car park at Abra Bay, Baia d'Abra. The trail lies directly ahead of you, passed the roundabout. Keep the picnic tables to the left and above you. The trail soon splits into two. Take the right hand fork and continue. There is a sharp decline down some steps and almost immediately a steep climb back up yet more steps.

After about 15 minutes, you will come to a crossroad in the path. The path to your right leads down to the sheltered pebble beach of Abra Bay.

The path to your left leads to a viewing point above the north coast. Located about a kilometre east of Ponta do Rosto, some people find this lookout somewhat vertiginous.

The Sea Horse rock

Even at this early stage of the Ponta de São Lourenço walk, the island's heritage is displayed in the surrounds.

The rocks take on various hues as the area is rich in minerals, notably, Calcite, Manganese Oxides and Phillipsite. Large lava bolders, or "lava bombs", are scattered on the bare landscape and the channels of ancient lava-flows can clearly be seen. The rugged, sharp rock formations and stark vistas constantly remind you of Madeira's volcanic origins.

About 5 minutes on, you can take a left fork towards the north coast. From here you can see the sea horse rock; a rugged, sharply pointed sea rock with reddish patches. This is one of the most photographed features of the Ponta de São Lourenço hike.

If you suffer from a fear of heights, you might like to return to the car park from here as the walk now becomes rather more challenging.

A narrow ridge with sheer drops

As you continue, you come to a narrow bridge of rock with sheer drops either side. If you care to look over the edge, you will see a strata of reddish rock in the sheer cliff side.

This is where some people decide not to continue with the Ponta de São Lourenço hike.

Whilst this track looks somewhat treacherous, this stretch can be passed in little more than a minute. The posts and safety guide wires will give you some confidence, try not to think what this pass would be like without them.

Having passed the sheer drops, enjoy the views to your left. Soon you come to another fork in the track. The right fork leads down to the seashore and is best left for the return journey. First, the steep climb up to the final viewing point is recommended, so choose the left fork.

The Casa do Sardinha

From here on, the track leads down a gentle decline and passes by a rather incongruous oasis of a few palm trees and a house, the Casa do Sardinha.

The house, originally constructed in the early 1900's, was built by a Funchal businessman whose name it now carries. It now serves as a base for rangers that tend the nature reserve that is the peninsular.

Nearby the building is a small, open, fresh water tank. This attracts the local bird population and is a good place to spot the species that make the peninsular their home.

The final Ponta de São Lourenço hike ascent

You can now start out on the stony path up to the summit of the hill. This section is why the walk is often referred to as a hike; the climb can be steep. The rocky peaks that you reach are some 150 metres in height. Beyond them is a sheer drop and you can go no further.

At the top, enjoy the 360 degree view. Beyond the headland you can see the Ilhéu do Farol, or in English, Islet of the Lighthouse. Not surprisingly, this island has a lighthouse on its extreme eastern tip.

Beyond the lighthouse island you can see the Ilhas Desertas, some unoccupied islands of the Madeira Archipelago. On a clear day, you can also see Porto Santo island to the north.

As you turn to descend, pause for a while and enjoy the view of Eastern Madeira.

A diversion on the walk back

When you return on your way down from the summit, keep the Casa do Sardinha house on your left. Now you can follow the walk down to the seashore. Here steps lead down to a landing stage that was to serve the Casa do Sardinha.

Having paused to take in the wonderful Atlantic views, there are steps that lead you back up. As you climb, you will pass a picnic spot - an ideal place to stop and have any refreshments you have brought with you. Then you finish your climb back to the main path and retrace your steps back to the car park at Abra Bay.

If you arrived using the S.A.M. 113 bus, as service to the Abra Bay car park is intermittent, you may find yourself walking back to Caniçal.

Common birds

Ponta de São Lourenço is a popular destination for dedicated bird watchers who visit Madeira. Even if you do not consider yourself a fully paid-up twitcher, you still might like to use you visit to the peninsular to spot a few interesting birds species.

It is very likely that you will see plenty of Rock Sparrows (Petronia petronia madeirensis) especially around the open fresh water tank at the Casa do Sardinha. Here, they gather to drink and are usually very vociferous

Other frequent visitors to the water tank are, Goldfinches (Carduelis carduelis parva) and Canaries (Serinus canaries).

Other birds

Other birds that you may be able to spot and identify as you walk the length of the peninsular are the Buzzard (Buteo buteo harteri), Rock Dove (Columba livia) and Spanish Sparrow (Passer hispaniolensis).

A particularly easy bird to identify is the Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus canarensis). These predators may not be numerous, but they can be seen at any point during the hiking route, hanging in the air looking for their next meal.

The nearby Ilhéu do Farol, where the lighthouse is located, has no land predators and is an important spot for nesting sea birds. The Roseate Tern (Sterna dougallii) has been recorded as nesting here. This is one of the rarer birds to be found in this region. So, if you spot one over the Atlantic, consider yourself privileged.

Other birds that you may see on your walk are the:

• Berthelot´s Pipit - Anthus berthelotii madeirensis
• Black-headed Gull - Larus ridibundus
• Buzzard - Buteo buteo harteri
• Common Kestrel - Falco tinnunculus
• Cory’s Shearwater - Calonectris diomedea
• Kestrel - Falco tinnunculus canarensis)
• Rock Dove - Columba livia
• Ruddy Turnstone - Arenaria-interpres

Flora

The Ponta de São Lourenço has been a nature reserve since 1982. It covers an area of over 3 million square metres (3 hectares) and reaches an altitude up to about 180 metres. The peninsular is semi-arid and home to mainly shrubs and herbaceous vegetation. The area is completely void of trees.

Underfoot, there are patches of bare rock, loose dirt and gravel. However, the overriding feature of the terrain is rough grassland.

Some flowers and thistles can be found growing in crevices and hollows or in sheltered locations.

During your walk you may find some bright yellow Madeira Wallflowers (Sinapodendron) here because they are well-suited to the dryish, rocky soils in exposed spots. You may also see Agave plants. Much of the area is covered by coarse grass.

Other flora and vegetation that you may see on your walk are the:

• Flowering thistles - Cynara cardunculus
• Ice plant - Mesembryanthemum Crystallinum
• Madeira Marigold - Calendula maderensis
• Pride of Madeira - Echium candicans
• Rock samphire (or Funcho do mar) - Crithmum maritimum

Fauna

The Ponta de São Lourenço is not only an important habitat for bird life. There are many other animals of interest to be seen here as well.

Perhaps the animal you are most likely to encounter on your hike is the The Madeira lizard (Lacerta dugesii). These reptiles seem to inhabit every crevice and appear, disappear and re-appear with an almost unnerving frequency. If you look closely, you will undoubtedly find a number of snails (Geomitra moniziana) also.

There is also a variety of insects that make the peninsular their home. Perhaps, more unwelcomed, do not be surprised if you spot the odd rat or two. Interestingly, the Ilhéu do Farol, the islet at the extreme end of Ponta de São Lourenço is devoid of rats. However, hiking is not encouraged on the islet.

If you are extremely lucky, whilst looking out across the Atlantic, you may spot the Sea-wolf Seal (Monachus monachus) also known as the Monk Seal. The seal colony is centred on the Desertas Islands which you can see to the south of Ponta de São Lourenço.

These sea mammals were thought to be almost extinct, their numbers being counted in single figures in 1998. Today, it is thought that the colony numbers more than 30 individuals.

In May 2008, a Monk Seal was seen off the Lido area of Funchal's tourist district.

Fish Farm

The Ponta de São Lourenço has a number of noteworthy man-made features.

To the south of the peninsular you will see a light-buoy and a number floats in circular patterns. This is a series of ocean cages that form a fish farm. The installation was completed in 1995. From 1996 to 1999 the cages were used to house sea bream and was jointly managed by Stirling Aquaculture and the Department of Fisheries, Madeira.

Madeira use to derive an income from whaling. Nowadays, the bounty of the sea is harvested by much more acceptable methods.

Ilhéu do Farol Lighthouse

At the extreme end of Ponta de São Lourenço are two small islets. The furthest away is the Ilhéu do Farol.

Located here is the oldest lighthouse structure in Madeira. It dates from 1870. The structure itself is octagonal in shape and has the appearance of black and white vertical stripes. It stands on top of a conical mound.

From 1983, the lighthouse was unmanned and operated automatically. Today, it is powered by solar energy.

Although the islet can only be reached via the sea, the lighthouse can be clearly seen from the south coast. The lighthouse itself is not open to the public and the surrounding area is a protected nature reserve and visitors are not encouraged.

Wind farm

As you drive along the ER109, keep a look out to the north. You will see a wind farm, Parque Eólico. Here there are six wind turbines generating electricity. It is also a good indication that the prevailing wind at Ponta de São Lourenço is from the north.

Drive another kilometre or so and you will reach the car park that terminates the road in the east.

Just before you reach the car park at Ponta de São Lourenço you pass by Prainha. This is notable because this is the only location on the main island of Madeira that has a black sand beach.

By Road from Funchal:-

From Funchal, you need to join the Rápida, the motorway that runs parallel to much of the southern coast of Madeira.

You need to join the highway heading in an easterly direction, towards Santa Cruz and Machico. If you find yourself heading towards Ribeira Brava then you are travelling in the wrong direction.

Keep on the Rápida and follow it to its end where it joins the major road, ER109.

Once on the ER109, you proceed for a further 3 kilometres until you reach a dead end roundabout with a car park at Abra Bay, Baia d'Abra.

You cannot miss the car park as the road terminates at Abra Bay and you can go no further by car.

There are plenty of parking spaces lined along the roadway. You will also find a few picnic tables here as well dotted above the roadway. Take time to enjoy some refreshments before you embark upon your hike.

Sometimes there is a mobile van parked here that offers snacks and drinks for sale. But, don't rely on it being there on the day you visit. It is best to carry at least some of your own drinking water as there is little shelter from the sun in the area.

The entire journey is about 25km in distance.

By Public Transport from Funchal:-

S.A.M. (Sociedade de Automóveis da Madeira) bus number 113 from Funchal to Caniçal is the only bus available to Ponta de São Lourenço. However check with the driver before you get on as often this route terminates at Caniçal and does not go to Ponta do Buraco, which is the start of the Ponta de São Lourenço walk.

S.A.M. buses are cream and white with the lower third being green. You can pick up the 113 at the S.A.M. bus station, which is on the Rua Calouste Gulbenkian, just up from the Rotunda do Infante which is at the bottom of Santa Catarina Park. Alternatively, and perhaps easier, you can catch the bus on Avenida do Mar e das Comunidades, just along from the São Lourenço Palace on the sea front.

The bus journey from Funchal should take about 1 hour and 20 minutes. However, as is often the case with buses in Madeira, this route serves different options during the day so the journey times are only approximate.