Madeira - Holiday Diary
Third visit blog - 28/04/2003 to 12/05/2003
Airtours from Bristol
28th April 2003 (Monday):
Dear Madeira holiday diary, this is our third visit. Here's hoping. . .
Bristol Airport. Flight (Air2000) was meant to leave at 1:10pm but was delayed so we didn't take off until 2:15pm.
Having left Bristol in the rain, we arrived at Funchal Airport at 6:05pm to sunshine - it's lovely to be on holiday in Madeira again.
We were lucky to share our transfer minibus with only three other couples, so after a brief stop in Canico, it was straight on to the Raga hotel, arriving 7:10pm. We're on the eleventh floor, the top, with a wonderful sea view.
Went out to Pingo for a takeaway, chicken and rice, then out for a walk. Noticed a few changes, a lot more buildings including one going up opposite the Raga [later to become the Eden Mar and Porto Mare Hotel].
29th April 2003 (Tuesday):
Walked down to the Lido Park before meeting the rep, Edwina, at 11:00am. Nice short "welcome meeting". We were the only new Airtours people - and we don't need to know much! However, did discover that there is a Flower Festival this weekend.
Walked into Funchal and visited market, Mercado dos Lavradores. Back to Raga for lunch of rolls and fruit on the balcony. Back down to town, wandered around. In the evening to "Dog & Duck" (Funil) for my favourite, espada and banana.
30th April 2003 (Wednesday):
Sunny, Funchal mountains cloudy.
Made up a picnic and got a SAM bus to Portela to walk the levada to Santo da Serra (about 4 miles and supposedly easy). Lovely walk through woodland. Had our picnic in an area which had a small flower bed and a table and chairs made out of logs. A pretty little bird came down to beg for scraps.
Got to Santo da Serra at 5:10pm for 6:00pm bus so sat in the main square by the church and finished off our bananas and yoghurt. Locals were setting up stalls and there were barbecues being heated up - it's May Day holiday tomorrow, perhaps there is going to be a Fiesta tonight?
Back to Funchal by 7:00pm. Walked back to Raga and booked a West Day trip for tomorrow from kiosk on the way. Up to Pingo for rice salad with bacon, carrots and beans.
1st May 2003 (Thursday):
Minibus collected us at 8:55am for our trip of Western Madeira. Very good female driver/guide.
Went to Câmara de Lobos where Churchill used to paint. Then on, passed Campanario, named after a rock that looks like a church bell, to Ribeira Brava for a short stop. Took a quick look at the church, two huge chandeliers.
On to Ponta do Sol viewpoint at Cabo Girão. Spectacular views of high sea cliff. Lots of children trying to sell garlands of yellow flowers that they had made. Our driver tells us it is a 1st May tradition, if we are wise, we will buy one and then we will not be bothered for the remainder of our journey.
Next up to Paúl da Serra. The plateau was very high up and cold and looks a bit like the commons on the Gower (South Wales) back home. There is a reservoir and stunning views down to distant villages.
On to Porto do Moniz for lunch stop. It is lovely; small with few restaurants and shops. On the seafront there are big, natural volcanic rock pools where people were swimming. Also a lido with a seawater pool.
After lunch travelled along the old north coast; lovely sea views and many waterfalls beside the road. We stopped by one of the waterfalls and everybody took photos.
Back to Funchal via Serra de Agua and the Rápido. Brilliant day.
Dinner in the "bird place"; chicken in mushroom sauce.
2nd May 2003 (Friday):
Hot and sunny.
Had an easy day. Walked down into Funchal to see the flower carpets - flower blooms and greenery laid out in patterns on the pavements to look like carpets. They are very good.
Came back and made a picnic to take to the Quinta Magnólia. Watched the men playing tennis. Then, back to the hotel and lazed about.
Went back down to Funchal for an evening meal at the "bird place". Two 3 course meals for 7 euro each. I had espada. Walked back via Jardim de São Francisco where a concert was going on - but it was Jazz so we gave it a miss!
3rd May 2003 (Saturday):
Cloudy.
The day of the Flower Festival children's procession at 10:00am.
Hundreds of junior school children carrying flowers. All in either National Costume or school, Scout or Guides uniform.
They walked from the fountain by Santa Catarina Park down Avenida Arriaga, past the flower carpets, then up to Praça do Município. Here there was a stage and a "big band" playing. The children climbed the steps to place their flowers in the hedging to form a "wall of hope".
Finally, doves were released and there was entertainment, including a children's choir and some very young, very good, soloists.
Back up to the Raga to make a picnic which we took to the Lido Park. Then a rest before going back to Funchal centre for Pingo takeaways to eat in the Praça do Município where live music started at 9:30pm - very loud pop music!
4th May 2003 (Sunday):
Sunny at first, then cloudy with drizzle on and off.
Went on open top bus tour of Funchal which was very good. Surprised to find that the guide was Nou Nou from the Wine Lodge.
Back for lunch then down to Funchal centre again for the Flower Festival's Grand Parade.
We stood on the grass bank at the bottom of Santa Catarina Park and had quite a good view - although it was very crowded.
Parade started from the Praça da Autonomia at 4:00pm but didn't get to us until about 5:00pm. 8 floats covered in flowers and each of them had an accompanying dance troupe and lots of children and adults in beautiful costumes and colourful hats.
It was excellent. Madeira certainly knows how to put on a show!
Back to the Raga. Had dinner in the coffee shop. I had omelette.
5th May 2003 (Monday):
Leisurely walk along the promenade to Modelo and back. It was very hot and we took frequent rests on the bright silver coloured metal benches along the way.
It looks as if they've extended it and there's a new swimming pool / restaurant area - just what you need when it's this hot!.
Later, walked down to "Ice Cream Square", via the front, and back again. Neither of us very hungry so we went to Pingo, but there was no hot food left. So, I settled for a sandwich.
6th May 2003 (Tuesday):
Hot and sunny.
Made up a picnic and got the cable car up to Monte. There were loads more people up there than the previous times we have been.
Had our picnic in the municipal gardens where the waterfall is. Wandered about a bit. It's the warmest we've ever known it up there - I even took my jumper off!
Walked back down to Funchal town centre and found our knees didn't turn to jelly this time. Then, back to Raga.
Ceremony on local Madeiran TV from Funchal stadium, don't know what it was all about. . .
7th May 2003 (Wednesday):
Hot and sunny.
Decided on a walk along the coastal path so made a picnic and walk along to the tunnel in the cliff and a little way the other side along Praia Formosa.
On the way back stopped at the little rocky area (a bit like Garachico in Tenerife) where there were lots of local children swimming in the natural rock pools. Had our lunch there and I dabbled my feet and we watched a young dog that didn't seem to like the water.
Walked back to Modelo and went down a little dirt path in the rock side and found a place to sit down and look out to sea. Then back to the hotel.
After a rest, we walked up to the levada behind the Raga and along to the football stadium. Then, down past Quinta Magnólia and down the back road to the port.
Climbed up the fort-type place to see the views then, as we were both hungry, went to Dog and Duck, Old Town (Romana). I had espada.
Walked back along the front to the Raga.
8th May 2003 (Thursday):
Hot and sunny.
Made a picnic and got the number 29 bus to Camacha. Had a quick look around the (very small) town and the (very large) wicker and ceramics shop.
Had an ice cream, then set off up the hill behind the church onto the Levada da Serra.
Walked along via Vale do Paraiso to Choupana. Lovely flat walk in woodland for about 6 miles.
At Choupana, had a bit of difficulty locating the bus stop and, when we did find it, the next bus was an hour later. So, we decided to walk part of the way down toward Funchal, mostly via steep stairways between the houses. Eventually got a number 29 bus and rode the rest of the way.
Back to the Raga Hotel.
To the coffee shop for dinner. I had espada, yet again! Then, a brief walk around the Lido Park before bed.
9th May 2003 (Friday):
Walked down to the Old Town with a picnic. Made 3 doggy friends with the aid of leftover chicken. Sat in the park, Jardim do Almirante Reis and watched the cable cars going up to Monte.
Walked back to the Raga via the front and went into the President's Gardens by the pink official Presidential Residence.
Back down to the Old Town to the Chinese for dinner of sweet and sour chicken, rice and fried vegetables.
10th May 2003 (Saturday):
Cloudy.
Packed a picnic and got the bus to Curral dos Romeiros. Walked the Levada dos Tornos as far as Palheiro Ferriero (3.7 miles).
Quite chilly in places but not bad. On the way, had to walk through 3 waterfalls and we both got our socks wet! Passed Hortensia Tea House and Jasmine Tea Rooms. Got the bus back into Funchal city centre and walked back up to the Rage via the front.
Had a bit of a rest before walking back to the Old Town, Romana, for dinner. I had pork skewer.
11th May 2003 (Sunday):
Hot and sunny.
A nice easy day. Did the present shopping then went down to the town.
Walked along the short pier near the port, then along the harbour before sitting on the long pier watching the dolphin watch boats go out. Along to the Old Town and then back to the Raga for a rest.
In the evening, went to the "Canary House" for dinner. I had the soup, inevitable espada and bananas and finally, fruit.
12th May 2003 (Monday):
Hot and sunny.
Our last day. After breakfast, packed the suitcases and put them in the locker room by reception. Got some sandwiches from Pingo and went down to the Lido Park for an hour and a half.
Back to the Raga to change into our UK clothes (!). Minibus collected us at 2:25pm and we arrived at the airport at 2:55pm.
Had to wait until about 5:10 before we boarded the plane, but we still took off 5 minutes early. Landed at Bristol at 8:45pm (due 9:15pm according to the ticket). There was a long wait for our suitcases! Back home by 10:30pm.
Thank you, Madeira, for another lovely holiday!
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