Câmara de Lobos, Madeira

Apart from the harbour and tracing Sir Winston Churchill's steps, there is plenty to do and see in and around Câmara de Lobos

Walk westward beyond the harbour and you will soon find yourself on a promenade walk bounded on the land side by a sheer cliff.

Look for a steep flight of stairs, bounded by metal railings, leading up the cliff. Climbing these, you find yourself in a delightful, small park.

This elevated park will give you spectacular views of the city and the surrounding area. With its outward facing benches, it is an excellent place for a picnic.

From your privileged position in the park, look westward and you will see the imposing sea cliff of Cabo Girão.

This is the second highest sea cliff in Europe. It boasts a vertical height of 580 metres.

If you are patient and look hard enough, you will see a cable car that descends intermittently, hugging close to the cliff face.

Do you fancy that ride?

If you do, drive westward out of the city. You will soon see the signs to the Teleférico. The cable car runs to order, and you will find yourself descending to some narrow fields that are worked at the base of the cliff.

Even if you don't fancy the cable car ride, a visit to the Cabo Girão miradouro is well worthwhile.

Still in the elevated park, you can look down upon the main church and town square.

Or, turn your gaze inland to see the rows of banana plants on the terraced plots on the hillside rising above the white-washed walled houses that sit back from the harbour. The grape vines which help produce the island's famous wines are situated further inland.

Looking at this scene, you will understand just why farming in Madeira is labour intensive with little or no mechanism to aid the farmers. It is a scene that has essentially remained unchanged for hundreds of years.

Retrace your steps and return to the seafront promenade. Continue walking westward, away from the central harbour.

You will pass a beach volleyball court and come to a small café and changing room facility that was unoccupied as at June 2011. Look around and you will find a flight of stairs that are nearby. These will take you to a elevated main square.

This main square is where the many locals buy their refreshments and so it is cheaper that those aimed at the tourist. There are two cafés here. Choose an outside tables and enjoy a cool drink as you look out across the expanse of the Atlantic Ocean.

To return to the harbour a different way, walk inland a little and visit the church that you viewed from your elevated position in the park.

Leading down from the church is a quaint lane with pretty flower tubs and a small restaurant. At the end, you will find yourself back at the harbour.

One claim to fame that interests many British visitors to Câmara de Lobos, is that Sir Winston Churchill made paintings of the harbour and various scenes.

Sir Winston Churchill had suffered a slight stroke in August 1949 whilst on holiday in France. Returning to England in late August 1949, he was then taken poorly with a severe cold in December of the same year.

After Christmas, the Churchill family of Sir Winston, Clementine his wife and Diana his daughter, travelled to Madeira for some rest and recuperation.

Another reason for the visit was that Sir Winston had been visited by his Black Dog, a euphemism for the bouts of recurring depression that he suffered from. With an Election campaign imminent in the United Kingdom, it was thought wise to conceal Sir Winston's state of demeanour from the British electorate.

The party arrived in Funchal on the cruise ship, the Durban Castle, on the 2nd of January 1950. From there they journeyed to the nearby Reid's Palace Hotel. Sir Winston intended to spend several weeks on the island writing and painting.

On 8th January 1950, Sir Winston Churchill could be seen at Câmara de Lobos. Looking down upon the harbour from the eastern hill that slopes up from the bay, Sir Winston was sat in a locally made wicker chair, cigar in mouth and paintbrush in hand. From this vantage point, the bespectacled statesman, dressed in a broad brimmed hat and long overcoat, worked on his now famous, painting of the colourful harbour. An umbrella protecting him from the direct sunlight.

Unfortunately, a General Election in Britain was called on the 12th January 1950. Sir Winston, as leader of the opposition Conservative Party immediately returned back to England.

Today, there is a plaque on the eastern terrace to mark the spot that Churchill occupied whilst painting. There is also the Winston Churchill restaurant.

Most Rodoeste buses from Funchal stop at Câmara de Lobos. Check with the driver as you board.

Alternatively, take the Blue Tour with Carristur. This is an open top, yellow tour bus that departs from the seafront promenade in Funchal. Conveniently, you can also hop on the bus from the Hotel District at the stop just opposite the Monumental Lido hotel.

The tour journey takes one hour, but you can get off at Câmara de Lobos and return to Funchal on a later bus.

Tickets cost €12 per person (correct as at June 2011) and can be purchased from any Carristur representative, easily identified by their bright yellow uniform tops. Carristur representatives can be found in the tourist district of Funchal, on the Funchal seafront promenade opposite the marina and also nearby the cable car terminal.