The British Cemetery in Funchal

The British Cemetery in Funchal can date its origins from 1770.

Occupying a spot at the end of the Rua da Carreira, you can easily pass by without realising what lies behind the tall, bland wall.

Like many cemeteries back in Britain, the passage of time has meant that many ancient plots have gone untended and have lapsed into disrepair.

However, for those willing to spend a little time investigating, the history that can unfold from the weather-worn headstones and memorial plaques is fascinating.

If you want to gain an alternative insight into the British presence in Madeira, then a visit to the cemetery is not a bad place to start.

Origins of the British Cemetery

Until the late eighteenth century, Protestant burials in Madeira were officially banned.

Prior to that date, the remains of non-Roman Catholic deceased were buried at sea.

The usual place for the bodies to be consigned to the waves was off the Ponta do Garajau, or the Brazen Head as it was normally referred to by the British inhabitants of the island.

However, in 1761, the first Consul-General in Madeira, William Nash, gained permission for a British burial ground to be located in Funchal.

The grounds were subsequently purchased and the cemetery came into being in 1770.

As there was no English church or resident Chaplin in Madeira at the time, the governance and maintenance of the Cemetery was vested in the British Factory.

At that time, the British Factory was a quasi-independent organisation that, in effect, controlled and protected all British commercial interests in Madeira.

Originally, it is reported, that funeral corteges required a military escort as the locals were prone to issuing abuse at the sight of a Protestant procession.

In 1808, additional grounds were purchased for the interment of British soldiers during the garissoning of the island by British forces under the command of General Beresford.

A further purchase of land was made in 1852 as the demand for plots within the cemetery grew. In particular, Madeira had became a destination for people suffering from tuberculosis as the climate was thought to be medicinal. Naturally, as no general cure was available at that time, many of these visitors died during their stay and chose to be buried locally.

The Mortuary Chapel

In 1854 a small building was constructed alongside the burial grounds.

This building was originally intended to meet the need for little more than normal, everyday functions.

However, in 1861, a conversion was undertaken that served to re-assign the building as a mortuary chapel.

Today, a commemorative plaque with the inscription To the memory of those who died in the service of their country Less we forget adorns the wall by the main entrance.

The chapel is normally closed to the visiting public.

Founding the English Church

The British Factory had purchased land near to the cemetery in 1810 for the sum of 5,435 US dollars.

In 1814, an undertaking was made to build an English Church in Funchal on this land. The building being completed in 1822 under the guidance of the then British Consul, Mr Veitch. However, on completion, the final cost of the entire project had reached 40,000 US dollars which equated to about 10,000 pounds sterling.

A Chaplin was installed, accordingly being awarded a dwelling and a stipend of 2,000 dollars per year.

The church's upkeep was partly funded by the levying of 200 reis per pipe, equivalent to about two shillings and sixpence, on all wine shipped from the island. (Note: the reis was, at that time, the local currency.)

The building itself, has a rather secular appearance from the outside. This was due to dictates that were in place during its construction. Laws existed that forbade any non-Roman Catholic place of worship to bear any outward semblance of a church.

The Holy Trinity Church, in the Rua do Quebra Costas, remains today a vibrant focal point for the ex-patriot community.

Some Noteworthy Graves

Anyone who walks around the cemetery grounds can find some noteworthy graves that will open a window on history.

For example, Paul Langerhans, a German pathologist and biologist (1847 - 1888) is buried here.

Langerhans cells are skin cells dealing with the body's immune response and they were first identified by Langerhans in 1868.

From 1885 until his death in July 1888, Langerhans resided in the Quinta Lambert which has today become the Quinta Vigia. His grave typifies the fact that the British Cemetery is the final resting place for people of many different nationalities.

Another peron buried here who may be of particular general interest is Captain Cecil William Buckley of the Royal Navy (1830 - 1872).

On the 24th February 1857, the then Lieutenant Cecil Buckley was the first recipient of the Victoria Cross to have his award details published in the London Gazette. Buckley had been awarded the Victoria Cross for actions undertaken at the Sea of Azov during the Crimean War, 29 May 1855.

British Cemetery Video

This video takes you from the centre of Funchal up to the English Cemetery. We then take a brief tour around the grounds, reflecting the tranquillity and beauty of the surrounds.

Directions

By Foot

Starting from the Municipal Gardens on the Avenida Arriaga in Funchal, walk to the top of the gardens and join the Rua São Francisco.

Walk up the remaining, narrow road of Rua São Francisco until you reach the T-junction at its top.

Turn left and head along the Rua da Carreira.

Initially, the Rua da Carreira is flat and totally pedestrianised. As you continue walking, you will pass a few restaurants with pavement tables outside.

Continuing along the road, you start to climb a gentle hill. Here, traffic is again permitted, so keep an eye out for passing vehicles.

In little more than 10 minutes since you started out from the Municipal Gardens you will pass a large wrought iron gate on your left. This is the formal entrance to the British Cemetery and is normally locked.

A few metres further up the hill is a narrow door in the wall. Again, this is normally locked, but you just need to ring the bell to gain admittance to the cemetery.