Balcões Levada Walk From Ribeiro Frio

The Levada route from Ribeiro Frio to the Balcões and back again has to be one of the easiest and most rewarding walks in Madeira.

When you reach the Balcões (or, in English, Balcony) you will be treated to some spectacular, panoramic views that are simply breathtaking.

The trail is almost level, so you will not find yourself having to negotiate any sharp ascents or descents. In addition, there are no sheer drops to the sides of the pathway, so there is no possibility of vertigo.

Also, there are refreshments available at the start and en route and plenty other things to see at Ribeiro Frio itself.

It is not surprising then that, Ribeiro Frio is a popular stop on many coach trips.

Start of the Walk:-

You start the walk at Ribeiro Frio. As you enter the village, you will see a souvenir shop and bar on your left and a restaurant on your right.

Walk further downhill and you will pass the trout farm on your right. A short distance passed this, on your right, you will see the start of the levada walk. It is clearly signposted.

The pathway runs parallel to, and above the roadway for a little way.

Right from the start, the leaf strewn pathway can be damp and slippery underfoot, so tread carefully.

In little more than a couple of minutes, you will have left the tourist trappings of Ribeiro Frio behind you.

The laurisilva forest:-

You are now walking through an ancient laurisilva forest which is endemic to the Azores, Madeira and the Canary Islands.

The laurel-leaved evergreen hardwood trees that now surround you form a humid, subtropical forest that reaches up to 40 metres in height. Due to the trees' climatic requirements, these laurel forest only exist on Madeira between 300m and 1,600m in altitude.

The forest itself supports a number of other endemic plants and animals. It is also important for capturing the moisture in the mists that often cover the area and returning it to the soil.

Such is the scientific importance that, in 1999, UNESCO declared the Madeiran laurisilva forest a World Heritage Site.

Continue over the bridge:-

As you follow the path it crosses over a small, moss-covered stone bridge and then turns back on itself.

Continue and you will soon come to a cutting between two towering, smooth rocks of basalt. They almost form a very short tunnel which then opens up onto different scenery.

After passing through the cutting, you will be able to see across the dense vegetation of the Ribeira da Metade Vally toward Faial on the east coast. Suddenly you realise just how Ribeiro Frio sits high up in the middle of Madeira Island, especially if you approached the village from Funchal and the south.

Along this stretch of path, the drops on your right hand side are about as vertiginous as they get anywhere along the route. However, the track is wide enough, and the slopes gentle enough, to make the way comfortable even for those that have absolutely no head for heights.

Bar Flor da Selva:-

As you continue along the track, through the branches, you can see the odd house nestling against the valley side. The white walls and terra cotta coloured roofs standing out against the mottled hues of green.

A little further on, and you come to the Bar Flor da Selva (or, in English, Flower of the Jungle Bar).

Here, you can enjoy some refreshments whilst sitting on the adjacent balcony, looking out across the dramatic landscape of greenery. The bar also has various tourist souvenir's and traditional Madeiran items for sale.

As you sit there, sipping on your drink, just consider for a moment how the owner manages to transport all his supplies to his shop!

The Balcões:-

As you proceed, be sure to obey the signed directions. In particular, just before you reach your goal, the path forks. Here, there is a sign warning you not to take the left fork. Do not be tempted to venture along this forbidden route - the terrain soon becomes treacherous and unsafe.

Finally, the dirt track is replaced by a cobbled stone path which, in turn, is replaced by paving stones. Then, as you take one final turn, you suddenly find yourself at the rocky outcrop that is the mirador viewpoint.

Many old photos that you may find on the Internet show the Balcões viewpoint with just a flimsy wooden fence protecting you from the sheer drops. Thankfully, this has now been replaced with sturdy metal railings and you can securely go right to the edge to enjoy the superb views.

If the day is clear, looking across the valley in front of you, Pico Ruivo, the highest point on Madeira Island can clearly be seen. Pico das Torres, not quite so high, is nearer to you. Toward the Atlantic Ocean on your right, you should be able to see the table-top mountain of Penha de Aguia (or, in English, Eagle Rock).

Bird watching:-

Stunning as the views are at the Balcões, there are also a few other things that may interest you when you visit.

Being in the heart of the island, covering an area of little human intervention, this is an ideal spot to undertake a spot of bird watching.

The elusive Madeira long-toed pigeon (Columba trocaz) has been seen here. Also, more frequent sightings include buzzards (Buteo buteo harterti), chaffinches (Fringilla coelebs maderensis) and grey wagtails (Motacilla cinerea schmitzi) amongst others.

If serious twitching is not really your speciality, then just drop a few crumbs on the ground. There are always some chaffinches about waiting to scavenge any scraps on offer.

Fajã de Nogueira:-

Set back from the edge is a natural pile of boulders with step indentations fashioned into the side. Many visitors climb the steps to get an even higher view of the surrounds. Personally, not having a head for heights, I resisted the urge to clamber up the steps.

If you peer down over the railings, you will see one of the few signs of human activity in the region. Located on the valley floor is the Fajã de Nogueira hydroelectric power station. This facility provides water and electricity for the Santana region.

When you have finally exhausted all the photo opportunities, it is time to turn around and retrace your steps back to Ribeira Frio.

Along the levada path leading to the Balcões

Views of the Metade Valley from the Balcões viewpoint

Powerstation in the Fajã de Nogueira Valley and the Madeira Chaffinch

Looking down on the ER103 road from the levada

By Car from Funchal:-

From Funchal, you need to make your way up to Monte.

From the city centre there are a number of ways to get to Monte. The routes are all clearly indicated by prominent roadsigns directing you to Monte Church.

Once you have reached Monte you will see the main bus stop just opposite the Largo da Fonte, the main square below Monte Church. Here, the road doubles back on itself in a hairpin bend and heads on further uphill. This road is the ER103 and you need to follow it upwards away from Funchal.

You now just need to keep on the ER103, passed Poiso and onto Ribeiro Frio.

The road will be winding and may even take you through low lying cloud. However, you will be in no doubt when you reach Ribeiro Frio as it has a large Welcome sign as you drive down into the village. There is also likely to be a large number of cars and coaches parked along the roadside as this is a popular tourist stop.

By Public Transport from Funchal:-

The Companhia dos Carros de São Gonçalo company operates the line to Ribeiro Frio. Line numbers 56, 103 and 138 all stop at Ribeiro Frio.

The journey will take you about 45 minutes and the buses depart Funchal from the bus stops next to the cable car terminal on Funchal's seafront.

However, you need to check with the driver as the buses on these lines take different routes to their final destinations and only a few stop en route at Ribeiro Frio. The buses are also infrequent, often only undertaking one outward and one return journey a day.

As of December 2009, there is only one bus that returns to Funchal from Ribeiro Frio after midday and that is the 6:36pm bus that runs 7 days a week. You should check your travel plans carefully with a timetable before embarking on your journey.

If you do decide to chance the local buses, make sure you are waiting by the roadside stop in Ribeiro Frio at least 15 minutes before the bus is due. Normally, the bus driver will not expect to pick up any passengers at Ribeiro Frio and will hurry on through the village without stopping unless they are hailed down - you have been warned!